Chassis
The RCR chassis is truly a work of art. It is constructed on .250 thick aluminum sheet that is CNC cut, CNC folded, and then jig welded together to form a very strong, yet lightweight monocoque design. Like the original GT40 chassis, the RCR's fuel tanks are part of the chassis. Where the original chassis used a bladder for fuel, the RCR chassis uses baffles to reduce sloshing.
Powdercoating The Chassis
The chassis on original cars was painted a very dark blue. I thought about painting it with a 2-part polyurethane black paint. However, the more I thought about it, the more work it seemed. Instead, I had the chassis, bulkhead, and many other pieces of the chassis powdercoated low-gloss black.
Front Section
I made some changes to the chassis to make it more like an original.
I fabricated some panels from .040 6061 aluminum sheet. They enclose the front section and protect it from the elements. This is what it looked like before the additions...
And this is what it looks like now...
For the bottom panel, I made a template from heavy duty stock, traced the pattern on the aluminum, and then cut the aluminum with my Bosch jig saw. The panel and the chassis will be powdercoated satin black like the original. The added panels will be attached using SSTL blind rivets.
Rear Bulkhead
For the rear bulkhead, I added additional panels to more closely resemble the original. Again, heavy cardboard was used to make patterns which were traced on the aluminum and then cut. The fuel pumps and fuel filters will be attached to these added panels.
[insert pictures here]
Many of the original cars had brackets attached to the rear bulkhead with hood pins installed. These hood pins were used as a secondary fastening device in case the side latches failed. There were occurrences where the rear clip flew open at high speed causing the car to crash. The brackets were made by another RCR owner, trimmed to fit my car, and then welded up.
Cockpit Foot Panel
After looking at the inside of the cockpit where people's legs go, I came to the conclusion that some sort of panel needed to be installed to hide the wires, fuse block, brake lines, etc. So, using my trusty 1/4" Masonite panels, I fabricated a mockup. I have approximately 8 inches behind the panel to cover all the ugly wires, brake lines, etc.
Before...
After...
I had planned on making the panel one piece, but I found that that would not work. First, the area is tight and the suspension mounting points made it impossible to put the piece in. I would have to disassemble a portion of the suspension to mount it or remove it. Not prctical. Second, I realized if I made it one piece, I would lose access to the master cylinders. I would have to take the pedal assembly out if I had to work on it or gain access to the brake lines. And third, I would not be able to access the wiring harness.
The solution was to make the panel two pieces. Both sides will be held in place with industrial strength Velcro to make access easier. Both panels will be insulated with Fatmat and covered in carpeting.
Center Tunnel
The tunnel on original cars was a curved piece welded in. It is used to house the coolant tubes, electrical wires, and brake lines. The tunnel on RCR cars is square. I decided to add a curved piece to house the wires. The brake lins, AC lines and coolant tubes will go in the square tunnel.
I made the curved addtion from 22 GA mild steel and formed the curve using a piece of 2 inch bar stock. I welded them together (I know, ugly welds) and will cover the tunnel with carpet.
Here is an original's interior...
Rear Belly Pan
Looking at the rear, it just didn't appear "finished". I decided that it would look better if it had a sheet of aluminum attached to make it flow better. I ended up making the belly pan in two pieces because I didn't have a sheet metal brake wide enough.
Here is Anthony installing the belly pan with some sheetmetal screws...
And here it is complete...(good job Anthony)
This should make air flow smoother as it exits from underneath thet car.
Original Looking Sills
Next up, I decided to modify the existing sills to make them look like the originals, complete with fuel tank access panels and the ribs. All original 1960's GT40's had formed reinforcing ribs along the length of the fuel sponsons like in the following two pictures. These ribs measured 1.060" wide and 0.240" high.
I also found a blank fuel cell cover plate that will mimick the access panel on the orignals. I got this 4x6 plate from ATL, maker of fuel cells.
I bought some 1.000 x .250 mild steel ovals to make the faux beads, since I really didn't want to spend $500 for a bead roller from Eastwood. It just didn't seem practical to spend that kind of money to make 6 beads (3 per sill).
The long beads are 31" long, The short piece is 18" long. And the third bead is 27". They are epoxied to the chassis with JB Weld. The faux access panel will be attached the same way after the chassis has been painted.
Tow Bar
Many of the originals had a tow bar attached the front. This allowed the car, if disabled while racing, to be towed safely off the track. They were not consistent car to car, so I copied one made by Dean Lampe that replicates the one on 1083.
Chassis Identification Plate
I had a local source fabricate a chassis serial number plate from a drawing I made. These plates are NOT Vin plates. They are used to verify to the local department of motor vehicles and highway patrol that the chassis serial number listed on the MSO from Race Car Replicas is the chassis in question.
