Body Work

Several cutouts in the body need to be made for the tail lights, license plate lights, head lamps, front turn signal lamps, door handles, rear clip vent, and engine induction.  I opted to use driving lights similar in appearance to those used on 1075P.  Consequently, I had to cut those opening as well.

 

Making the cuts takes a steady hand, patience, lots of measuring, more patience, and more measuring. It is recommended that you use a mask of some type to prevent inhaling the fiberglass dust, which can be very irritating.  A long sleeved shirt is also helpful as the fiberglass fibers can be very irritating to your skin.

 

I took the time to make templates from heavy duty poster board available at any arts supply stores.  Templates make the job much easier.

 

Tail Lights

 

Using a compass, I made a circle the same size as the recessed area where the tail lights will be mounted on the poster board.  The circle was cut out and placed on the body to make sure it was sized correctly.  A little trimming was necessary to fit.  Once the template was sized correctly, the opening was traced the poster board.  An Xacto knife was used to cut the hole out in the template.  The hole was slightly larger to allow for some adjustment fitting the lamp base.

 

The template was placed on the back of the lamp base to check fit.  The hole was then transferred to the car with a Sharpie marker pen. Cutting the hole was easy with a Dremel and a plunge bit.  Rough edges were cleaned up with a drum sander attached to my cordless drill.

 

 

The lamp base was then installed into the hole and centered it in the recess area.  Mounting holes were drilled with a 7/32” drill bit.  The lamp cover was then installed with #8 x 2” sheetmetal screws.  Caution was used tightening the screws to avoid cracking the lamp housing.

 

 

 The final result.  The lights fit great.

 

 

Front Parking/Turn Signals

 

Original GT40’s came with several types of front parking/turn signals.  The most popular ones used today are the small flat lights and the larger, higher profile lamps.  The smaller flat style is used on the side of the body in front of the front tires just below the headlamp recess area.  The larger style is mounted near the outside edge of the driving light recess.

 

A 1” hole saw was used for the small lamp. A small drum sander attachment on a Dremel was used to slightly enlarge the hole to fit.  Mounting holes were drilled and the lights were then attached with 8-32x1 machine screws and nutserts.

 

 

 

 

 

Rear Vent Opening and Engine Opening

 

I started by drilling holes in the corners with a 1” hole saw.  I then cut straight lines as close to the edge connecting the holes.  The edge was cleaned up with a wood rasp and then a drum sander attachment on my Dremel tool.  The finished holes should be right to the edge.

 

 

 

The plan is to have the grilles polished.

 

Driving Lights

 

Cutting the holes for the driving lights is a bit more complicated. I wanted the look of the round driving lights used on many of the original GT40’s.  During my research for the correct looking 5-3/4”, I came across ones made by Zoops and available though Summit Racing.  These lamps are used to replace cars that came with 5-3/4” lamps. 

 

I replaced the standard wattage lamps with a set of 100/130W H4 Halogen lamps.

 

I measured the lip of the bulb to determine the size hole needed.  At 5-1/8”, a 5” hole saw would work best.  I would then sneak up to the correct size with a drum sanding attachment attached to my cordless drill.

 

So, using my 5” hole saw, I made a cutout in some ¼” Masonnite,  I used the 5” round cutout as a template to where I needed to make the cutout on the car.  I held the template on the body and marked the center.  I then proceeded to make the cutout.  I then used the drum sander and slowly made the hole large enough for the light to fit from behind.

 

 

 

And here they are both installed.

 

 

 

Headlamps

 

The headlamps are by far the trickiest of all the holes to cut.  The space is recessed, making getting any cutting tool in there a tad difficult.  And the lamps are very big (240mm x 125mm), almost the same size as the space.

 

I first made a template from paper, then traced it to cardboard, and then finally to 1/4" masonite.  The masonite worked best because it retained its shape after cutting it to size.

 

I traced the hole pattern onto the body, then cut it with a Dremel a bit undersize.  I then "sneaked" up to the correct size little by little.

 

 

 

The plexiglass covers come oversized.  The best way to define where they need to be trimmed it to tape them in place, then draw a line along where the cover will fit.  Then I used a Dremel to cut the cover close to the marked line.  I then changed to a grinding wheel on the Dremel to slowly trim the cover to the marked line.

 

The cover is then fitted and if necessary, trimmed some more until it fits.  After deciding that it fits correctly, I sanded the edges smooth with 220 grit sandpaper.

 

I taped the cover in place, marked the hole locations with a Sharpie, then drilled the holes with a special plexiglass drill bit from McMaster-Carr.  8-32 nutserts were then epoxied in place in the body and allowed to dry over night.

 

To keep the elements out, I installed some 1/2" wide by 1/8" thick adhesive backed foam rubber insulation.  I used a 1/8" drill bit to poke holes through the insulation where the mounting holes are locted.  8-32 x 3/4" SSTL button head screws are then used to secure the cover.  Care is used not to over-tighten the screws and crack the cover, which can happen.

 

 

 

Rear Spoiler

 

Some of the originals had an added aluminum spoiler to produce additional downforce at high speeds. 

 

 

I decided to replicate the adjustable spoiler for my car. 

 

First, I made a mockup with some heavy cardboard, cut to size and fitted.  Next, I made a wooden jig from the template using some 3/4" thick particle board.  I clamped my .080 aluminum sheet to the jig and cut the aluminum using a router and a flush cut bit. Here it is taped to the car to test fit.  Slots like on the original still need to be milled.

 

 

I had a local machine shop mill the slots in the spoiler so it can be made adjustable like the original...

 

 

The slots are 3/8" wide by 1-1/2" long.  The retaining bolts ae 5/16-18" x 3/4" SSTL hex-head button head screws

 

 

 

 

Windows

 

The rear window is 3/16" thick plexiglass.  It comes semi-shaped, requiring the builder to trim it to fit.  Plexiglass is very hard and does not shape easily with a sander.  I ended up using a hand-held power planner to trim the peice as close as possible.  Then I used a metal file to make the final contours, then used 220 sandpaper on a sanding block to smooth the edges.

 

Here is the rear window fitted...

 

 

 

Anthony and I then proceeded to install the rear window.  I asked the guys on the FFR Cobra forum and the GT40's forum what would be the best method to fastening the windows.  Nearly everyone recommended threaded inserts and some type of machine screw.  Suggestions ranged from 6-32 to 10-24.  In the end I selected 8-32 SSTL hex drive button head screws. 

 

For inserts I went with a .015 flanged head rivnut.  Once installed, you thread the screw into the rivnut and it pulls the threads up, creating a mushroom (or flange) on the inside.  This prevents the insert from coming out.

I initially went with 8-32 x 3/4" screws, but changed them to 8-32 x 1" to get more thread engagement. I used #8 SSTL flat washer to protect the Plexiglas from getting damaged.

 

 

 

 

To keep the elements out, I installed some 1/2" wide x 1/8" thick foam rubber insulation from McMaster-Carr.  The insulation is adhesive backed on one side.  First I cleaned the window with some plexiglass cleaner made by Novus.  The I peeled the backing off and slowly applied the insulation to the edge of the plexiglass.  I used a plastic roller to make sure the insulation was firmly atatched (no air bubbles).

 

After attaching the insulation I used a 1/8" drill bit to open up the mounting holes so the 8-32 screws would pass through.

 

 

On to the side windows...

 

The side windows are 1/8" think Lexan and formed to the contour of the body.  They have the pop out window cut.  All that is needed are the hinges, which are extra.  Like the rear window, they come rough shaped to the window opening.  I taped the window to the door, drew a line around where it needed to be trimmed, then cut the shape using a power planner.  The corners were rough shaped with the planner, then smoothed with a file and 150 grit sandpaper on a sanding block.  The task required fitting, trimming, more fitting, and more trimming until the window fit nicely into he window recess...

 

 

 

Original GT40s had 21 screws on the side windows.  After marking the locations, I decided it looked too crowded.  I ended up using 13 per side, which I feel looks better.

And here is the side window permanently installed. 

Clip Latches

The front and rear clips are secured using 4 latches attached to the sides.  Original latches are difficult to come by and cvery expensive.  There are a number of companies that make authentic reproductions of the original Hartwell latches.  I chose ERA's parts.

Dzus Fasteners

 

Six Dzus fasteners are used on the front clip.  Four are used to secure the nostril, and two are used to hold the center of the front clip near the windshield from flapping about at high speed.

 

 

 

And the two Dzus fasteners near the windshield...

The side view mirrors are Vitaloni California units.  They come matte black but I had the painter paint them the car of the car.