PARTS LIST:

-Coleman 11.75 x 1.25 ventilated rotors
-AP Racing 4-piston calipers
-Tilton floor mounted triple pedal system
-Tilton billet brake bias adjuster
-Tilton master cylinders
-Wilwood 2# residual valves
-Hawk street/strip brake pads
-Earl's SSTL flex brake lines
-Pegasus Racing 3" brake ducting
-Custom made brake duct mounts
-Richardson Racing Products flush flange ducts
 




Brakes

Rotors and Calipers

My GT40 is fitted with 11.75" x 1.25" Coleman ventilated rotors and AP Racing 4-piston calipers all around.  The front calipers are SC200 and the rears are SC300

 

Rear

I took the hats off the rotors and polished the snot out of the hats.

 

Pedal Assembly

The pedal assembly is a Tilton floor mounted triple pedal unit fitted with seperate master cylinders for the front brakes, rear brakes, and clutch. Working with Tilton engineers, we came up with the master cylinders that would work best.  They are a 5/8" bore for the front, a 7/10" bore for the rear and a 1" bore for the clutch.

Not wanting the risk of brake fluid spilling out of the master cylinders, I decded to mount the remote reservoirs on the front bulkhead. 

The MC fill tubes will go through the front bulkhead and connect to the master cylinders.  Next up, the brake lines.


Brake Lines

The brake lines are standard 3/16 preflared lines from NAPA.  I was able to use lines without having to cut and flare any of them.

Because the master cylinders are below the calipers, I had to install 2# residual valves in the front and rear brake lines.  Thie will keep the fluid from emptying back into the master cylinders and causing the loss of the brakes.

 

Brake Cooling Ducts

Many of the originals had brake cooling ducts on their cars to aid in cooling the brakes and engine compartment.  The brake rotors were very susceptible to cracking due to overheating.  Solid brake rotors were used back then.  Each team did their own thing. Shelby and HM cars were completely different when it came to stuff like this.

For the front brake cooling ducts, I bought 4 3" OD duct flanges to which the 3" brake duct hose will attach.  I fabricated a flange to which he duct flanges will be riveted and a bracket that mounts the flange to the front upright.  All the pieces are made of aluminum.

And together, they look like this...

The mounting brackets are attached to the front spindle with three 8-32 SSTL screws and lockwashers.  One end of the hose attaches to the bracket on the spindle...

And the other end attaches to a similar flange mounted on the body.  The body mount is open in the front where air passes into the box containing the headlamp and driving lamp.  Air flows into the "box", through the duct and to the brakes...


 

Rear Brake Cooling Ducts

The rear brake cooling ducts are per orignal ducts and made of fiberglass.  The ducts are glassed into the rear clip.  They direct air from the side scoop to the rear brakes.

 

Brake Bias Adjustment

I purchased a rotary rear brake bias adjuster from Tilton.   I fabricated a bracket from aluminum that will mount the rotary adjuster as well as the driver's side ventilation cable.  The bias adjuster alters the braking force input to the front and rear master cylinders by way of altering the leverage via a moveable fulcrum.